by guest writer Tom --
We started
driving at 6:00am on Saturday. It was dark until about the 29-South exit. We
continued on I-66 to I-81 (following the signs to Roanoke), 2nd exit
after getting on I-81, 19 miles west on US 55. Stopped to pick up forks (we had forgotten
utensils), left on Sand Creek Road, left on North Mountain Road, right on Waites Run Road.
Waites Run Road
starts off barely 2 lanes. Gradually, it becomes obviously one-lane. Then
one-lane gravel. Then one-lane gravel, 2nd gear only. Then 1st
gear. Eventually, we drove to the designated parking area, but there were no
cars there and we weren’t sure. So we went a little farther, found a post with
a sign that said Old Mail Trail to the right and Wilson Cove Trail to the left.
Also, “to the left” was the road we were on so we decided that we were no
longer on a road and went back to the parking area. Turning around was a 2-person
job with Tran giving directions.
The weather was
beautiful, but cold. Not cool, cold. We would enjoy dry blue skies for the
entire weekend, but the trail and streams bore evidence of recent heavy rains.
We strapped on
the backpacks and backtracked down the road for a mile towards Pond Run/Tuscarora
Trail (apparently, some trails bear multiple names the same way roads will be
(e.g.) I66/US55/VA17). But we couldn’t get across Pond Run. We could see where
the trail went down to the stream and where it emerged, but we couldn’t find a crossing.
The rains had been heavy and that crossing was not for people with our skill/equipment
level. We decided to walk back to the car and start up the Old Mail Trail.
Much of the
trail at the beginning was underwater, and we had to slosh through some parts.
It was a bit difficult to find the trail again after the 1st
crossing. Tran had brought along gaiters which might have kept some water from getting
into our boots. Neither of us got wet feet and we left that swampy area soon
enough.
Old Mail Trail
continues along a very pretty forest with many long-needled pine trees. Most
tress that drop their leaves in the fall had already done so, but the pines
were very pretty. The trail, very rocky as eastern mountain trails tend to be,
were a little more treacherous than usual since the fresh blanket of leaves hid
some of the rocks.
If some mailman
ever walked that trail on a routine basis, he was in very good shape. It was steep and long and long and steep. There
were hardly any respites from the steady grind going up. We stayed warm from
the climb, but I never shed my jacket. I got down to having only a long-sleeve
thin shirt under the jacket, but I didn’t sweat much in that outfit. I did unzip
the jacket, but that climb in a jacket indicates how cold it was. And we were climbing
into the wind and additional cold. The trail was muddy at many places.
Old Mail Trail
crosses Racer Camp Hollow Trail and we followed the Racer Camp Hollow Trail
accidentally for a short way before we realized our mistake. Don’t forget that
Lewis and Clark charged up the Yakima
before retracing their steps and continuing down
the Columbia. We saw very few people so we were constantly checking the trail. With
so many leaves obscuring the trail, it was easy to lose the trail. We got back
on the Old Mail Trail until Tuscarora Trail meets it on the right. There is a
large rock at the intersection and we stopped for lunch. We’d walked 2.3 miles
from the beginning of Old Mail Trail, plus a portion of Racer Camp Hollow Trail. At this point, there were snowflakes on
the leaves that had dropped to the ground. Tran couldn’t believe it was snow
until I confirmed it was either snow or ice. They looked like small pieces of
tapioca pearls to Tran.
We found a nice
camp site half mile up the hill and across from it is the White Rock Spur Trail
which we wanted to take, but since it was unmarked (like many other trails,
including the Tuscarora), we were not sure if that was the trail. We were going
to ignore it and continue on until Tran realized we had already walked 20
minutes. So we turned around and took the trail. Tran was ahead and found a
camp site and waited for me there. When I didn’t show up after a while, Tran thought
perhaps I had gone on. She took off, and in the process, got disoriented. We
found each other shortly after, but we couldn’t be sure which way we came from.
I wanted to give up and return to the camp site because I thought the trail
kept on and on and I didn’t see the overlook. But Tran was glad that we went in
the wrong direction. Instead of returning to the camp site, we came to a place that
looked like the end of the trail. Tran thought we already made it this far, it’d
be a shame to miss the overlook. So she whipped out the directions we had
printed out from Atlantic Hikes website. It says that we have to scramble up
and over some rocks. Tran loves to scramble over rocks, so she scrambled. It’s
not one my strong suits, but I followed along. When Tran came to the view, she exclaimed
“Wow. I’m so glad we didn’t miss this.” I had to agree.
There were three
gentlemen taking in the view as well. They were going to camp, but they had hammocks
and the forecast was for low teens and strong wind so they said they’d go back
home. They asked if we were ready for temperature in the teens. Tran wasn’t
sure if the answer should be affirmative. Tran thought of the story of a hiker rescued
from the Pacific Crest Trail within 200 miles of the Canadian border. The hiker
met a local person who was on a day hike and told the local person she didn’t
have snow shoes, but she thought she’d be fine and didn’t want to end the hike
even though a snow storm was in the forecast. She wanted to complete the trail,
inspired by the movie Wild. She was
saved because the local person looked out for her and called for help. The hiker
already recorded an apology to her family on her cell phone for perishing on
the trail.
After enjoying
the view and taking pictures, we hiked back and decided to set up camp at the
camp site we found, instead of continuing on. Tran was glad we did because we
wouldn’t have found a better camp site and we didn’t have to walk farther with
the heavy backpacks. It was very windy, but the camp site is protected by big
rocks. We could definitely feel the difference when we walked higher to try to find
a better site for the tent. We decided to use the lower ground for protection
from the wind. We threw leaves under our footprint for extra insulation. We
cooked some ramen and added in tuna and dry sea weed and called it dinner,
though it was only 2:30pm. We used a nearly empty cartridge on the old blue
CampingGaz stove. We were told by REI that the kind of cartridge the stove uses
is no longer sold in the US. The stove and cartridges are made in France. We
have another full cartridge, but our stove will be useless after that cartridge
is used up. Tran is sad because she bought the stove and it has served us well.
We decided to go
out on a day hike to explore, hoping to see the Sugar Knob Cabin, a PATC hike-in
rental, about three miles away. The last mile of the hike was hard. It was a constant
uphill with muddy parts. Keeping an eye on the clock, we almost got there but
ran into a huge pool of muddy water that prevented us from proceeding unless we
wanted to get wet and dirty. This was also at the threshold of when we could
comfortably get back to our campsite in the daylight. So we turned back.
The walk back
was downhill, but strenuous (the rocks kept me on edge, and my fatigue was
making my steps less certain) and we were pretty tired by the time we got back.
I pulled the bear bag from the tree I had used and heated up water for cocoa. I
made the cocoa, but Tran was looking for good picture spots. The stove heated
things quickly, but the temperature and sun were going down quickly as well,
and her cocoa wasn’t that warm by the time she got it.
While I tied up
the bear bag, I started to shiver quite a bit but tried to fight through it and
function. I tried to floss my teeth but couldn’t feel my fingers so flossing
was hard. After I broke it once, I gave up. I did take my nightly medicine.
Tran asked if we were going to have a camp fire, I said “I think we should get
into the tent and the sleeping bags as soon as possible!”
We had
everything ship-shape and crawled into the tent and our sleeping bags at 5:30pm.
That may sound early, but it was dark and we were getting cold. I wasn’t confident
that I could quickly get a fire going and even if I had, I wasn’t sure it would
keep us warm; wherever we sat and whatever we touched, seemed to such the heat
from us. The sleeping bags promised warmth.
And at least
mine delivered! I was chilled when I got in. I wrestled my clothes (thankfully
dry) off and curled up into my bag that is rated for 20-below (Tran bought the
bag for herself and wanted that rating, but gave it to me after she found a
smaller bag that fit her better even though it is rated at 30 degrees higher). Because my bag is warmer, I gave my liner to Tran. Shivering
at first with numb hands, my hands quickly warmed up and I found the drawstring
that closes the hood of the sleeping bag around my head and the bag around my
shoulders. I was warm. But then I cooled off for a bit. But I warmed up again
and stayed warm the rest of the night. Oh, it was wonderful. I would lie on my
back, then on my left side, then on my back, then on my right side. I wanted to
reach over and put my arm around Tran, but I was cocooned inside my own bag. At
on point, I had only my nose out, and I reached from inside to feel my nose,
and it was freezing! Eventually, I loosened the draw string so there was more
of my face (even my chin!) outside and I was fine. I never enjoyed a sleeping
bag as much as I did that night.
During the
evening, the wind picked up and we could hear it viciously howling. The rain
flyer rattled and Tran imagined an animal prowling outside of the tent. For 13
hours, we stayed in the sleeping bags. For those who wonder how that could be,
it is dark and cold with little that we could do. At some point, I looked up
and saw what I thought was dawn, but the light was only from the moon, I guess.
At 6:30am, there was no doubt; the tent was clearly visible. I checked my watch
and we decided to get going.
Our water
container, which we had brought inside the tent, hoping to keep it from
freezing, had sprung a leak which soaked my ball cap. Tran actually noticed
some leak before we took the water container into the tent, but thought it had
been fixed. The opening of the water container must have been partially frozen
before we took it inside the tent and prevented it to be shut. Many other
things got frozen even though they were in the tent. Tran’s lens solution got
frozen and her right lens was like a fossil in ice. The one thing that didn’t
freeze was the water bladder full of water, probably because Tran had covered
it with her jacket. It’s a small tent, but we managed to get ready
simultaneously. Oh, something as simple as pulling on pants, required some
stomach muscles that I barely have. I got a sweater on, but Tran had to pull in
down behind me. The boots were in the vestibule and I managed to get them on
well enough so I could stumble out…
We were surrounded
with an orange sky as we did before going inside the tent the evening before. We
could see the orange band through the leafless branches of trees. What a treat.
I went to get the
bear bag and heated water for cocoa. There was enough water left in the water container for
it. But in the process trying to fix the water container’s leaking problem, I
ripped apart the opening and now the water container is no more. Again, the cocoa cooled off quickly but we
enjoyed it. We went out to the overlook before breaking camp. It was so pretty
even after sunrise. The shadow stretched from left to right over a
multi-colored forest and the shadow receded to the left as the sun rose higher
in the sky. Tran took some pictures and tried to set up the tripod, but the
rocks’ angles wouldn’t cooperate so we have no pictures of us together. This is
a spectacular vista with the fall colors in the valley below.
We headed back
to the campsite and packed up. For the 2nd time, I lost a glove. I
found it later on, but my fingers were freezing. I wondered if being cold is
like being tired on a bike trip; just live with it. I would shake my hand and
blow on it, but it stung. But I tried to keep packing and doing things. I remember
scouts from miserable campouts more or less “shutting down” and I didn’t want
to do that. Tran seemed less affected by the cold than I did. We got everything
packed up and started out around 8:30am.
I was dressed as
warmly as I could be; long T, light sweater, down vest, big jacket. I knew that
I’d be too warm soon enough, but the trail started down and that didn’t warm
me. The rocks on the ground are icy, so we had to be extra careful. After a
half mile when we still had some energy, we decided to take a side trail for
fun. We went as far as the Sulphur Spring Turnoff.
Just as the day before,
we had gone up, up, and up, today we were going down, down, and down. My hip and Tran’s knee felt this. We had to
cross a creek several times on the Old Mail Trail. At one crossing, we got
there at just the right time. There was a “bridge” which is a single 2x10 or
2x12 that looked as if it could easily break. Both of us wondered about
crossing it coming back. As luck would have it, two people with PATC helmets
were replacing the plank with another just as we got there. In fact, I actually
helped them just a bit, and was the first one to test it. Although it bowed (pronounced
boad) quite a bit as I went across, it held. The old one had a foreboding crack
in the middle and part of it was splintered off so that it is thin in the
middle. We didn’t know how much weight it would hold. We appreciate the trail
volunteers very much.
There were a few
other notes: I saw one enormous pine tree that seemed to tower over everything
else. Most trees, at least in the east, or at least, broadleaf trees, have many
lower branches. This tree’s branches didn’t seem to start until after most
trees ended. It was beautiful. The pine cones on these pine trees were wonderful.
They were dense and big; they looked like Christmas ornaments. Tran and I saw
two trees side-by-side on the overlook and we both noticed them, but didn’t talk
about them until later. They had similar cones, but were different in colors.
We got back to
the car. The apples we had left in the car were frozen, as were the hard-boiled
eggs, some left-over coffee in a commuter cup, and some sparkling water. The
sandwiches that I left behind were ok, and the coffee in a thermos was only
cold.
We drove (VERY
carefully) down the road (one-lane rocky and uneven road with potholes that are
filled with water) and stopped at a camp site and picnic area we’d seen when we
walked down this road the day before. It was a beautiful day (still cold) and Pond
Run was clear and tumbling over rocks (and we weren’t considering trying to cross
it). It was so pretty that I snapped a picture on my phone.
We munched a sandwich
and drove off, retracing our steps. We stopped at a Denny’s. After seating us,
they claimed they were running behind and wouldn’t take orders for 45 minutes. Tran
wondered if they didn’t want to serve Asians. I wondered if they didn’t want to
serve people in grungy hiking clothes. We got a coffee and shake at the next-door
Burger King instead.
It was a wonderful
weekend. We hope to get out on more day-hikes. This late in the year, there’s
too much dark and cold combined to make the camping worthwhile, but the mid-Atlantic
mountains make for wonderful outdoor trips and we hope to take advantage of
where we live more often.